Starting a new skin care routine every 2 weeks
Hyperpigmentation is the results of an overproduction of melanin, the pigment that gives to the skin its color, inside the melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin, located in the basal layer of the epidermis. It worth to note that the overproduced melanin will only be visible at the surface of the skin after a long way that last around 28 days, as the freshly produced melanin will migrate into the superficial layer of the skin at the speed of skin cells renewal.
This means that there is always a lag period of time between the application of a new topical products and the efficacy results it will provide. By changing products every 2 weeks, you won’ have the time to see the full benefits of the product, and you can also misinterpret which product is effective.
Our recommendation is to try a new topical product after at least 6 to 8 weeks of use. In this condition, your skin has the time to react to the new products, your melanocytes will start to produce less and less melanin and the results will start to be visible after 6-8 weeks.
Some products, such as Cyspera, can show some benefits on the skin (lightening, skin texture,...) within the first 4 weeks of applications, this is because we are also acting on the melanin in the surface, making it less dark, but the effects is more transient and won’t last for long.
As recommendation ‘consistency is the key’
No protection against sun exposure
Hyperpigmentation is the results of an overproduction of melanin that is mostly triggered by exposure to the UV. Starting a new routine for hyperpigmentation without sun protection would be like pouring water into a leaky bucket.
It is also particularly the case as some treatment for hyperpigmentation reduce the natural capacity of the skin to protect against UV. We can cite peeling treatment (at home or professional), but also retinoids, who are both affecting the surface layer of the skin. The skin will thus be naturally be less resilient against sun exposure for up to 14 days after application of such product. And keep in mind that the best sun protection is not sunscreen, but to look for shadow and for physical protection !
Applying thick layer of products or mixing several products to accelerate the efficacy
It could be tempting to consider that applying more products (in quantity and in number) will accelerate the depigmenting efficacy. However the opposite can happen !
Indeed cosmetic products are tested in conditions of use for their safety and tolerability. Doubling the quantity or mixing the cream with another cream that contain other active ingredients, may lead to reaction between the active ingredients and there is a risk of irritation. And unfortunately irration is a trigger of hyperpigmentation. So by mixing several products together or applying more quantity than recommended, you may achieve the opposite results.
As recommendation ‘always apply product as recommended and avoid mixing potent brightening creams unless it has been recommend by your beauty specialist’
No maintenance phase
Hyperpigmentation, especially melasma, are benign but challenging to treat skin conditions. A factor that makes this condition difficult to treat is the chronicity. It means that Melasma is never completely treated for once, it will reappear periodically, more usually during summer, but also when exposed to external triggers (hormonal changes). One of the most common mistake is to consider that the treatment is finished once all the lesion have disappeared, and to stop all preventive and corrective skin care.
Hyperpigmentation deserve maintenance and care on a long-term basis. UV protection needs to be religiously applied on a continuous basis : every day, whatever the weather. Application of brightening cream needs to be continued to maintain the activity of the melanocytes (the cells that produces melanin) to a low level to avoid recurrence of melasma lesions.
To conclude, treating hyperpigmentation is long journey, that require protection, consistent care and maintenance. Reoccurrence are unfortunately part of the journey, but with time and patience, it’s possible to find the right routine that will effectively reduce hyperpigmentation on the long term.
